Essentially, the only time to get food is during market
days. The market comes twice a week to my town, Ali, but I was in need of some
food in between time. As a result, I walked to the designated standing area in
hopes of catching a bus to the neighboring town of Agarfa (which was hosting a
market day).
I gazed down the endless stretch of dirt road. Beautiful
rolling farmland hills splattered with trees can be seen on the outskirts of
town (I can spit in any direction and hit the outskirts of my town…super small,
super rural). A bus was coming! I was like- sweet that was easy, right? …Nope. As
the bus came closer, the crowd of people froze and stared for a brief second. Kind
of like what a dog does the moment it sees a squirrel. I could see it in their
steely glares- they also knew it was market day… The ground trembled. Tensions
began to rise. A fly landed on someone’s arm. Somewhere in the distance, a
needle hit the ground. A bead of sweat dripped down the side of my head. Then,
as if there was a signal to do so, people started sprinting wildly toward the
bus. It was just like that scene in Jumanjii, right before a stampede bursts
through the bookshelf. Before I processed what was happening, the man I was
making small talk with grabbed my forearm and we were off! I made my way to the
hoard of people pushing and nudging around the bus door as it opened. I didn’t
stand a chance. Let’s face it; these folks were way more experienced than me in
the art of forced entry through a narrow door. I think I’d get laughed at if I
tried to explain the concept of waiting in a line…so I didn’t. Just when I
think I’m not going to make it, this old man with a beard dyed red from henna
emerged, godlike, above the crowd and started pushing people back with his
formidable cane. Suddenly, another stranger grabbed my arm and packed me into
the already crowded bus. The door slammed shut. It didn’t look like there was
room for me to sit, but then, somehow, room was made and I squeezed in.
Personal space isn’t a thing here… Thanks old man red beard.
I looked around. Everyone was shoulder to shoulder, thigh to
thigh. Of course, I am the only white person on the bus (let alone in my entire
town). There were flies everywhere, a cheesy shag carpet type thing covered the
dashboard, there’s a smell…Jesus and Messi stickers made the windows
aesthetically pleasing (naturally), it’s super hot, but all the windows are
closed. Pothole. Pothole. Bump. Pothole…SCREEEETCH!
Gotta dodge donkeys/goats/cows. Everyone is staring (story of my life) and
someone was vomiting into a plastic bag. Welcome to Ethiopian transportation...We
out here.
A beautiful, older Muslim woman decided to ask me about
myself. Everyone was so surprised to hear me speak their language! Tensions
were immediately broken, and literally the entire bus begins to smile, laugh
and clap for me. After the ride, the woman I spoke to invited me into her home
for a buna (coffee) ceremony. I was offered a delectable spread of snacks
(cookies, bread, candy, bananas, oranges, zaytung, etc.). She proudly
introduced me to her daughters who were shy, but very welcoming. Her house had
thin mattresses on the floor which served double duty as couches. The walls
were brightly decorated with a colorful array of traditional items. After we
drank our coffee, I was invited again, on a different day, to their home for
lunch.
This time the floor was covered with a copious variety of
specialty Ethiopian foods as well as food specific to Muslims (sitting on the
floor to eat is not abnormal- my left leg always falls asleep…I’m working on it).
The flavors and spices were so good! After dinner, there was another buna
ceremony, and the daughters proudly described their Muslim religion to me. I
did not know much about Muslims, so I was eager to learn (turns out the diverse,
swirly, culture pool that is Fort Collins didn’t offer much info…). My new
sisters proceeded to tie my scarf into a hijab, and we talked and laughed
together for several hours.
These strangers took me into their home and almost
immediately claimed me as a family member, inviting me to return at any time.
They even had to audacity to thank ME when I was leaving! I don’t know if I can
properly depict the amount of appreciation and love I feel for all of the
people who have readily taken me in as their own. This is just one example of
the many invitations I have received during the first couple weeks in my new town.
People stop me on the streets (by street, I mean dirt and rock walkway) and
invite me into their homes for bread and coffee and random children line up to
shake my hand and practice their “how-are-you-I-am-fine-thank-you-my-name-is…” monologue.
I have experienced so much hospitality and kindness, I can hardly stand it.
Day to day, I have no idea what’s going to happen, and I
love every second of it. Such an amazing
adventure!
Make note of my new/permanent address in the top right
corner. My closest internet is in the next town which is anywhere from 20
minutes to 2 hours away due to the unpredictability of local transportation. I
will try to keep in touch as much as possible, but no news is good news
sometimes (*cough* mom…).
Miss and love everyone! Thanks again for reading and taking
interest in what’s going on out here.
Nagaattii (bye!),
M-Dog.
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